| Shutdown Haze - NEIPA |
| Home Brewing Recipes Brooks Brewery Associate Brewer Arny Lands |
| Beer Nexus the crossroads of the beer world |
| Here at Brooks Brewery things are going well as our outdoor beer garden has proven quite popular. I hope you stop by to try some of our great beer. When you do be sure you ask for me or our head Brewer Artie Hannema. We both really enjoy meeting the readers of BeeerNexus. As always if you have any questions just write me here at BeerNexus and I'll be happy to answer them along with input from our award winning head brewer Art Hanneman. As this Covid19 headache continues it might be the right time for a new version of my NEIPA. At a modest 7% it's quite drinkable and tasty. Last time I featured an extract recipe so how about all grain this time. MALT/GRAIN BILL 10 lb (4.5 kg) Pilsner 1.25 lb (567 g) wheat 1.25 lb (567 g) flaked oats 1 lb (454 g) Carapils 6 oz (170 g) Crystal 15 HOPS SCHEDULE 0.25 oz (7 g) Mosaic at FWH Yeast nutrient and kettle finings at 15 minutes 1 oz (28 g) Motueka at flame-out 3 oz (85 g) Mosaic at flame-out 4 oz (113 g) Citra at dry hop (see below) 4 oz (113 g) Amarillo at dry hop 2 oz (57 g) Galaxy at dry hop YEAST Imperial Organic Yeast A04 Barbarian or something similar, such Vermont Ale (aka Conan). DIRECTIONS Mash in with 4.25 gallons (16 l) of water (166°F/74°C) and mash at 152° F (67°C). Sparge with 5 gallons (19 l) of 168°F (76°C) water. Boil for 90 minutes. Do at least a 30-minute hop stand with the flame-out hops before chilling. You will pick up most of your IBUs during this step, but don’t be tempted to put them in during the boil or to shorten the stand. Pitch the proper amount of yeast, and ferment for roughly a week at 67° F (19°C). Allow the temperature to rise to 70°F (21°C) after vigorous fermentation is done (usually on day 3 or 4). Dry hop for 7 days. Make sure to blanket your fermentor with CO2 while you dry hop to minimize oxygen pickup. Consider adding the dry hops in two different additions, 3 days apart. Gently swirling the fermentor every couple of days is also helpful. ---------- BREWING WATER What properties and characteristics does a brewer want from water? What kind of water should be used to make stouts? IPAs? These are the kinds of questions I am frequently asked. Here are the answers. Brewing water affects the beer in three ways: It affects the pH of the beer, which affects how the beer flavors are expressed to your palate; it provides “seasoning” from the sulfate-to-chloride ratio; and it can cause off-flavors from chlorine or contaminants. In general, brewing water should be clean and free of any odors, such as chlorine or pond smells. Usually, good brewing water for conducting the mash and creating the wort should be moderately hard and have low- to-moderate alkalinity. But it depends (doesn’t it always?) on the type of beer you want to brew and the mineral character of your water.Good beer can be brewed with almost any water. However, water adjustment can make the difference between a good beer and a great beer Historically, many famous beer styles were developed in conjunction with the water from the region, but you need to understand that brewers have been adjusting their water for hundreds of years. So don’t assume that you have to use the exact water profile that you find on the Internet for Dublin, Ireland, if you want to brew a good stout. The water profile for a famous brewing city may be a step in the right direction, but do your research and find out how the brewers of that region/style actually used the water to brew their beer. How do you know your water’s alkalinity and hardness? Often that information is contained in your city water report. For hoppier beer styles such as American Pale Ale or American IPA, you can add calcium sulfate (gypsum) to the water to make the beer taste drier and have a crisper, more assertive bitterness. For maltier styles, such as Oktoberfest or Brown Ale, you can add calcium chloride to the water to make the beer taste fuller and sweeter. Generally, you don’t want to exceed 400 ppm for sulfate or 150 ppm for chloride. Sulfate and chloride are the seasoning for your beer, and their ratio will affect the flavor balance to a large degree. A hoppy beer will generally have a sulfate-to-chloride ratio of 3:1 or higher, and you don’t want both of them to be at their maximum because that will just make the beer taste like mineral water. ------------------------ That's it for this month. Hope to see you next time! Good Brewing and Cheers! Arny Lands |
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